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Post by yachtsmanwilly on Dec 28, 2023 18:16:16 GMT -5
Those crack phones will be the BANE of our existance! I tell these guys to email me pics and Ill size them, but alas poor Yorik; I knew him well.
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Post by Avenger on Apr 23, 2024 14:37:45 GMT -5
Well, This Is Embarrassing. Among the many issues I face, the forward bilge pump cr@pped out a couple of weeks ago. So I've cobbled a replacement in. Actually the original one was cobbled too. Just not as much. The obvious problem is there is no way this is going to pass a survey. Other problems include the present wiring is inadequate for this pump, which draws twice as much power as the previous pump, there is no "good" way to wire all this in the bilge, and I'd like to add a control switch and cycle counter. I've also purchased an Ultra float switch, which has a high-water alarm, and I'd like to add that feature as well. Also, there is no shower drain sump/pump, the manual bilge pump is junk and I need to replace hoses as well. What else? I'm sure there's more, but it's too discouraging. This is what else is down there, one hose is probably the shower drain, the other is probably the manual pump. No idea what the other hole had in it. I thought I was going to install a junction block in the drawer area of the V-berth and put all the switches and things in the corner where they'd be safe from people banging into them, but still accessible. Speaking of access, it turns out the drawer framing pretty much eliminates it, so a junction block would have to sit pretty close to the bilge and be very difficult to access. Pondering all of this it occurred to me that the closet adjoining the head was an excellent place to put a junction block. It would also allow switches and other accessories to be placed on the bulkhead, or accessible inside the cabinet door. Lousy picture looking down from the door: The bulkhead that would host the electrics is on the left where the copper pipe for the shower is showing. Now that I'm considering this, I'll take a better picture. Here's the considerations: Electrical theory has it that an approximately 40 ft round trip between the pump and distribution panel at 15 amps requires 6ga for 3% voltage drop. However, I think I can go down to 8ga. without issue since it isn't a "critical" circuit. Also, putting the junction in the closet shortens the run a bit. Considering that the pumps and switches all come with 16ga wire, so there's some theory of what a "power source" actually is. I'm probably going to use 12ga to extend the pump wires to the junction block, since that is apparently the "source." Also apparently, the butt connectors to the 16ga are also a "source" if you add heavier wire. Goofy, innit? I don't have a lot of time to tackle all of this right now. I mainly need to tidy up the bilge pump setup. But I would like to plan for future considerations. Mostly the shower. So, recommendations on the shower sump? Rule assembly, Johnson, or just go direct to a Whale diaphragm pump and skip the sump? Repair the original hand stroke manual pump, or go to a Whale gusher lever pump? Or skip it entirely? I have to replace that tired corrugated pump hose. How do we feel about the Trident PVC outside rib pump hose?
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Post by yachtsmanwilly on Apr 23, 2024 17:34:32 GMT -5
vdept.cgaux.org/JobAidFiles/VSC_Manual.pdfITEM II page 40: ✔ *-**> ) $ The dewatering equipment recommendation is built on common sense. This may be the only means to take care of an emergency situation. All boats should carry at least one effective manual dewatering device. It is recommended that boaters carry a handoperated plunger, a bucket, or a large plastic bottle with the bottom cut off to serve as a water scoop. This recommendation is in addition to any installed bilge pump that the boat may have on board. If an electrical or mechanical bilge pump is installed, it should be in satisfactory operating condition. Pontoon boats with no bilge or compartments that cannot flood are encouraged to carry at least one dewatering device for possible assistance to other boaters. So by the book, at least a soda bottle cut off in addition to the built in device is adequate. Ive heard the Whale gusher pump more per stroke with less fatigue. I'd look around for a nice antique brass pump and mount it above the floor so you dont need to lay down and operate it. I also have a U.S. Navy belt driven Jabsco trash pump that needs some TLC if ya want it. It has a cone style clutch that is worn but can be fitted with an electric clutch. I sent it to DEPCO and they went through it; all's well otherwise. It was engine driven off a 6-71. Pipe it to compartmentalize it for emergency. Its another project for sure. Surveys suck at a minimum. Need a Penisis to come aboard and nit-pic YOUR boat? At $100/foot I dont think so. We ended up with State farm for everything including up to 25K, plus 100-300 liability on the Roamer WITH NO SURVEY and $1M in oil clean up. I refused to get caught up with all the other insurance bullshit. Haggerty (!) wont touch a fresh water aluminum boat; PERIOD. A rotten old woody? Nooo problem. Go figger. On the bottom pic, whats that gate valve for If you dont mind me asking?
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Post by Avenger on Apr 23, 2024 19:43:28 GMT -5
We've been flying without a net on insurance since the lizard cut us loose. Survey or not, the current bilge pump setup is a cluster. It needs to be done regardless.
In the closet pic the original manual pump is still there. It's a brass tube deal with red plastic ends. It could possibly be repaired, but in principle I like those big lever style diaphragm pumps. They seem to move a lot of water, and considering the location it looks a lot more practical to push-pull a lever than stroking a vertical pump handle... if you catch my meaning.
I doubt the manual pump is good for more than drying the bilge water that the centrifugal pump can't get. Oil floats on water, so all things considered, getting the surface below the pickup height mayn't be a good idea.
The gate valve is long gone. This is the only pic I have of the closet area. It's from when, or possibly even before I bought the boat. We replaced all the through hulls and now there's a ball valve there. It's the discharge from the head. 1970 boat.
I'm going to see if I have a layout pic so youall can see where all the components are located.
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Post by yachtsmanwilly on Apr 24, 2024 6:03:32 GMT -5
The "hand-job" looked just like the one on the sub. Trying to stroke it was a PITA with about 30% of the effort in keeping it straight for easy movement. A full stroke if youre lucky, was maybe a quart; more like a pint. Just made it legal. All the jokes aside, in a litigation happy world we live in today, anyone getting hurt or even a sinking with an oil slick will putcha in the poor house, and that sucks. All the big toads (lizards) think that an older boat is a total claim waiting to happen. I dont know how many times I told these fuggers my story and I would NEVER intentionally hazard my boat.
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Post by Avenger on Apr 24, 2024 9:18:46 GMT -5
I'd bet it's the same pump. I can't read the label on it tho. If you look at the model brochures on the last page there is a blueprint that is really hard to see: www.hatterasowners.com/Brochures/36CO/36CO/36CB-0069.htmThere's a locker that is shared between the head and the V-berth. It shows a medicine cabinet (looks like some kind of insert) on the head side of it. The pump was mounted right under that. I @$$ume the cabinet insert swung out, or in, or something like that. It doesn't exist in my boat. But at least the pump should have been easier to operate since it was vertical and you could operate it standing. I'm still thinking that Whale lever pump is the way to go if I actually do re-install something like that. That's another option for a later time. I'm still looking for input on the shower sump vs greywater pump. Not that I'll be doing that now either, But I would like to leave a spot for the electrics. Also, the bilge pump hose. I'd prefer a smooth interior hose to corrugated, but I didn't have a great experience with the black Trident on the head inlet. Anybody have any experience with either?
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Post by bigbill on Apr 24, 2024 20:38:30 GMT -5
that brass pump is the same one that was in my 1972 58yf one in each engine room, one with a y valve and a hose going to the genny room.. niether one worked and i could not find rebuild kits for them so i discarded them, i have a portable hand pump with a hose on it in case something goes really wrong
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Post by Avenger on Apr 26, 2024 9:03:10 GMT -5
that brass pump is the same one that was in my 1972 58yf one in each engine room, one with a y valve and a hose going to the genny room.. niether one worked and i could not find rebuild kits for them so i discarded them, i have a portable hand pump with a hose on it in case something goes really wrong I agree, if you polished it up, it would make a good nautical wall-hanger. If your decorating style is "Rapture of the Deep." I wouldn't have a lot of hope of saving the boat with that, even if it did work. However, I see nothing wrong with a manual backup and I'm leaning more and more to the Whale pump. Possibly, the handle can be removed and stored nearby to keep it out of the way.I read a Boat U.S. article about bilge pump wiring, and they claimed that neither ABYC nor the Coast Guard actually require bilge pumps. Hence also no 3% rule on voltage drop. That notwithstanding, Hatteras installed a foreword pump and an aft pump for when the boat is on plane. I'm upgrading them both. The aft pump isn't going to be anywhere near as elaborate tho. So, nobody with an opinion about shower sumps? Any idea what Hatteras installed back in the day? Rule, Attwood, Johnson? Anybody?
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Post by yachtsmanwilly on Apr 26, 2024 9:21:15 GMT -5
The sub had 6 plus 3 shower sumps. All 32VDC.
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Post by Avenger on Apr 26, 2024 10:19:20 GMT -5
The sub had 6 plus 3 shower sumps. All 32VDC. As I think about it, I'm more inclined to go with a sump system than the greywater pump. If nothing else, it's an extra bit of insurance in case somebody drops something down the drain.
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