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Post by Avenger on Dec 29, 2011 11:45:20 GMT -5
we cant expect too much this weekend, it is new years after all, but next weekend GET YOUR ASS TO WORK lol Right, working with a hangover never produces great results. And next weekend is the NYC boat show. If I take both days for boat stuff I'll end up living on it.
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Post by badhattitude on Dec 29, 2011 13:35:38 GMT -5
we cant expect too much this weekend, it is new years after all, but next weekend GET YOUR ASS TO WORK lol Right, working with a hangover never produces great results. And next weekend is the NYC boat show. If I take both days for boat stuff I'll end up living on it. If you live on it there's no excuse for not getting some work done.
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Post by 34Hatt on Dec 29, 2011 15:14:16 GMT -5
See your already blew off two weekends Drink a little less and work on the Boat!!!! I went straight to the motor then off the motor to a ground bus.
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Post by Avenger on Dec 29, 2011 18:22:29 GMT -5
Hey, no fair! I said I was going to measure for battery cables this weekend.
I've been reading what ABYC info I could get my hands on, and they seem to call for an independent conductor between the starting motor negative terminals for paralleling and don't recognise a ground bus like I'm considering. The ground bus seems to accomplish the same thing much more cleanly, but is this going to be a problem?
Before somebody starts yelling, I'm only interested in the ABYC code because circumventing it is the kind of thing that will cause a problem on a survey which will cause problems with potential buyers and my insurance. Not that I'm looking to sell, but I would like insurance, and hey... you never know.
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Post by badhattitude on Dec 29, 2011 20:07:56 GMT -5
ABYC is not the end it all in wiring.
If the bus and wires to and from it are large enough there is no reason not to use it but the 600 amp bus is not big enough.
CG publishes a better spec with voltage drop tables if you need.
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Post by banned on Dec 29, 2011 20:09:25 GMT -5
I'd run batteries to switches to starters and buss on the + Then batteries to engines grounds to buss on the - single cables on the batteries. 4/0 is a little over kill for 3208s unless the runs are really long. One piece Crimp connector lugs and terminals with the heavy duty heat shrink with the sealer inside make a nice neat job. You might save a little going all black then just use red heat shrink to ID the positive. The Blue Sea buss bars are well made they also make a protective cover for the positive. If you can borrow the good crimping tool it makes all the difference.
Brian
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Post by Avenger on Dec 30, 2011 0:21:25 GMT -5
Sigh... it looks like I'm going to end up with a lot more wire running around. According to the CAT manual with 4/0 you can only go about 7 ft. I assume they're not measuring the complete circuit that way, but with the batteries in front of the engines a 7ft wire run isn't much of a stretch. Also, it's been suggested by a few people that with 4/0 there's never any slow cranking issues. CG publishes a better spec with voltage drop tables if you need. Would you happen to have a link handy?
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Post by badhattitude on Dec 30, 2011 9:25:03 GMT -5
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Post by badhattitude on Dec 30, 2011 9:26:17 GMT -5
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Post by Avenger on Dec 30, 2011 9:34:19 GMT -5
I found Subchapter J.... It looks like I have a lot more reading to do.
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