|
Post by badhattitude on Oct 1, 2020 19:44:08 GMT -5
You need down angle gears. You also need to have proper mounts fabricated.
I've done a few convertibles and its not rocket surgery
|
|
|
Post by skycheney on Oct 1, 2020 20:31:26 GMT -5
You need down angle gears. You also need to have proper mounts fabricated. I've done a few convertibles and its not rocket surgery Ok. I thought that was his problem. I figured down angle gears were only needed when you had height issues in convertibles with the floor right over the top of the engines. So why did he need to cut out the stringers?
|
|
|
Post by badhattitude on Oct 1, 2020 21:07:58 GMT -5
Because he was too cheap to have the right motor mounts made.
The mounts that come with the transmissions never work in repowers from older technology.
|
|
|
Post by skycheney on Oct 2, 2020 20:01:46 GMT -5
Because he was too cheap to have the right motor mounts made. The mounts that come with the transmissions never work in repowers from older technology. I don't understand. The sterntube is fixed. The trans output has to mate up to the shaft coming through the tube. That dictates where the engine has to sit. Mounts must be made to hold the engine/trans in that fixed spot. It seems that if the output angle on the trans is wrong, that would tip the front of engine too low which was his problem, not the mounts. The mounts are a function of where the engine has to sit to be in alignment. He couldn't raise the front of the engine to get it on the original stringers because the alignment would be off. The only solution was to move the front down or change the angle of the output on the trans (as in not a down angle). What am I missing?
|
|
|
Post by banned on Oct 6, 2020 6:20:07 GMT -5
The way to do it is to fabricate mounts that allow the new engine and trans to fit in the old engine and trans foot print. You can probably still get the drawing of your installation. When I do it I set the engine on the floor at the exact angle it needs to sit in the boat in relation to the stringers. Then set up some 4X4's to replicate the stringers. Then I fabricate the mounts based on that. I never use the factory mounts because they never fit the application and they're to lightly constructed.
Brian
|
|
|
Post by skycheney on Oct 7, 2020 19:36:30 GMT -5
So, I've been emailing with Pascal. He confirmed that he had down angle gears and that is why he needed to cut down the stringers. He said if he had gone with straight through gears, they would have sat on there just fine. He also sent a few more pictures of his install with measurements all around. It was actually quite helpful.
Cummins called me yesterday to get some more info. We'll see where this goes.
|
|
|
Post by skycheney on Oct 7, 2020 19:38:34 GMT -5
The way to do it is to fabricate mounts that allow the new engine and trans to fit in the old engine and trans foot print. You can probably still get the drawing of your installation. When I do it I set the engine on the floor at the exact angle it needs to sit in the boat in relation to the stringers. Then set up some 4X4's to replicate the stringers. Then I fabricate the mounts based on that. I never use the factory mounts because they never fit the application and they're to lightly constructed. Brian I like the idea of doing a mock up with 4x4's. I'll be using that idea should this all happen.
|
|
|
Post by yachtsmanwilly on Oct 8, 2020 6:54:57 GMT -5
When I repowered from the OEM 283F 185 hp. models (flywheels forward) with Paragon gears, I had to set up the 454 Merc 330's and Velvet Drives on 4x4s just to ruff in some measurements. That got me close enough to call it "OK". Wanted to make sure of hull clearances. When the motors were set on the stringers I still had to notch out the 3X12 X 12 foot stringers to get the adjustable mounts where they needed to be. The inboard stringers were good, but the OB ones needed a 1 inch notch cut in at the front and rear. There was also an athwart rib that the very front of the trans laid on that needed a trim. If I slid the power unit aft, the prop was getting too close to the rudder. Dont forget theres some math back there too!
Same time I cut the single one post aluminum strut (been broken and welded 2x) and bearing off and made a "V" strut plus added another single strut mid shaft. That ol' Roamer only had the rear strut and trans bearing to center an 11 foot shaft. ZERO shaft vibrations now.
A suggestion??? Move them friggin' inlet strainers to an accessible area. Did that on the sun on the AFT side of the ER bulkhead so I can stand there and clean/drain PLUS easy access to the packing gland. Theres a ton of cleaning down there even if yer as clean as Capt Barf or whoever that "Capt" is on the HOF with the 51C in the admirals' blouse. Paint the bilge with ALKYD enamel and dont neglect piping arrangements before you cant access them. I'd still go through the side! LOL... ws
|
|
|
Post by banned on Oct 8, 2020 7:14:58 GMT -5
These new engines are super quiet it's hard to tell it's a diesel but you will get more vibration with a 4 stroke engine especially at low RPM. The Hat mounts are strong but very little vibration isolation. We use Bushings Inc. mounts look them up they're what Cummins offers only at more than twice the price. I switched to them on the 61 and it made a difference.
Brian
|
|
|
Post by badhattitude on Oct 8, 2020 7:25:39 GMT -5
I've used the Barry isolators and custom mounts on a handful of repowers. I don't remember any that needed the stringers cut down. We did pull the stringer caps and rework them.
All of the repowers used down angle gears. I don't see the need for cutting stringers.
|
|