|
Post by 34Hatt on Jun 9, 2010 7:44:13 GMT -5
Well my front unit 5k Cruiseair with a SMX ir controller is acting really Strange Last Friday go to boat turn it on all is fine about 1-2 hr latter its off fan on low speed says 40 and seems dim on display, push cool/heat/fan nothing. Cycle power nothing. Reset it all is back 15 min its kicking in and out of cool mode time to go so we leave and I shut it off. Come back next day ran it for 6 hrs and it was fine, Thing is I remembered it did the same thing last fall before it came out of the water. Everyone keeps saying the controller is f#*ked up replace it. I would but want to be sure its not some thing else???
|
|
|
Post by spcoolin on Jun 9, 2010 9:45:23 GMT -5
Only way to know if it's the keypad/display, or the power logic board on the unit is to try another keypad, or try that keypad on another unit...
If the problem moves with the keypad...Replace the keypad..
If the problem shows on the same unit with another keypad...Replace the logic board on that unit...
Also...Be sure to first check the telephone plug connections both at the unit end & at the keypad end of the cable...actually remove them from the plug, examine, and spray a bit of Corrosion X or the like on each connector...
Steve~
|
|
|
Post by 34Hatt on Jun 10, 2010 7:11:18 GMT -5
I was afraid you were going to say that I have a 16K in salon but its a Marineair. All my buddys also have marineair since I loaned my marineair key pad last year to a friend to case down a problem. Did not think about connection will check them out and a little spray Guess worse case I will have a spare one what do they cost these days? Problem is it can work for days then goes Wacky Thanks Dan
|
|
|
Post by spcoolin on Jun 11, 2010 8:52:04 GMT -5
The SMX IR is now $225.
From your description...I'm betting on a connection problem, and most likely at the unit end of the control cable...
Generally speaking, that's where the most moisture lives, and that connection is close to where the hose clamps are on the condenser...Even slight leakage there can cause the problem.
While you are in there...Be sure to do the temp sensor connection too since it's right next to the control cable connection.
Steve~
|
|
|
Post by yachtsmanwilly on Jun 11, 2010 10:06:51 GMT -5
Hey Steve... been meaning to touch bases with you for a while! Pretty soon, I am going to "embark on a crusade that will become part of history..." D. Eisenhower 1944 We conversed about the unit I pulled off that crashed 31 foot Cris craft. Its my plan to use that for a zoned unit in the master stateroom. I already knew, and was re-affirmed from your forum this morning about too much cooling producing cool wet air. Is there a calculation for determining tonnage per square (cubic?) foot? The master is 12X12 and protected by the well windowed upper salon thats also 12X12. Will this unit be better for the master plus 2-3 small rooms or better in the upper salon? The window thing baffles me and I would sure rather be cold at night than too warm during the day. Right now we are living with a 220 vac window unit in the lower salon which seems ok for all points there and below. Even a big fan will barely push the air upstairs. ws This is the unit that had the fan slightly crunched for $100. Would the mounting be better above or below the water line... condensate drainage, dampness, etc...
|
|
|
Post by spcoolin on Jun 11, 2010 11:04:18 GMT -5
Hey Willie~
12K (1 ton) in your climate, I would expect to be good for up to 200 sq ft of "Below Deck" cabins...150 sq of "Mid Deck cabins....And at maxx 100 sq of "Upper Deck cabins with big windows...
Usually you want the unit mounted down low in the cabin (or at least the return grill) but want to discharge the air as high as possible (cold air falls & you don't want a hot head & cold feet)
Steve~
|
|
|
Post by 34Hatt on Jun 11, 2010 12:16:41 GMT -5
The SMX IR is now $225. From your description...I'm betting on a connection problem, and most likely at the unit end of the control cable... Generally speaking, that's where the most moisture lives, and that connection is close to where the hose clamps are on the condenser...Even slight leakage there can cause the problem. While you are in there...Be sure to do the temp sensor connection too since it's right next to the control cable connection. Steve~ $225 figured it was a least $200 so I was close BUT I Like that thinking and nothing to lose ;D Will be on the boat this weekend so will do as you say Thank You Steve Will report Back next week
|
|
|
Post by ppat324 on Jun 12, 2010 11:37:08 GMT -5
Thanks too Steve! i am gonna mount the unit at about waterline level in a spare dressing table thats been moved. A false front will give good access and plenty of return air and a discharge plenum for most of the aft end which is the master 10X14, a bath, a hall and a tool room 8X7 . We are starting to get going here as the number of projects is dwindling, like maybe down to 3-400 or so; that is, until next winter! ws
|
|